A plate of frozen fish and mashed potatoes is carried by a waddling old man toward the microwave. He shuffles forward in a bent posture like an emperor penguin walking against the wind. As he moves the plate to its destination, he loses balance and makes a racket against the inside of the microwave walls. He curses in Spanish, but after closer inspection, he shrugs, since the frozen food had stuck to its exact place. He wheezes and grips the kitchen counter as the old microwave hums away.
I begin shuffling papers at the dining room table to make my presence known. He whips his head up in surprise.
“Hola Jorge,” I say coolly, trying to diffuse his alarmed state.
“Ahh– Willy– ¡Hola!”
The alarm on the microwave beeps and I jump up and awkwardly ask if I can help. Jorge kindly shakes his head as he carries our food to the table, the steam rising in large plumes.
The smell of microwaved fish and mashed potatoes smells as it has always smelled. We sit in silence for a while and then Jorge takes hold of the conversation, his eyes blueing over accounts of the Napoleonic war.
As the dry fish struggles it way to my mouth, I remind myself to bite, breathe, then swallow. Or, maybe swallow, breathe, then bite. I wonder how many different orders of these three actions are possible. After attempting five different combinations, I eventually land on the sixth and final, which is swallow, bite, then breathe, bringing Jorge’s conversation about the Napoleonic wars to an abrupt end. I try to answer, but my mouth is still wide open with food. Crumbs of fried fish fall from my mouth.
“Lo siento, Jorge,” I apologize, shaking my head.
I try to communicate my thought experiment to him in broken Spanish, but am unsuccessful. He looks at me a bit worriedly as I continue stuttering. He finally interjects by pointing out my poor acquisition of Spanish. I heartily agree with him.
Jorge wraps up the Napoleonic War and shoots into the Algerian War. I register his words in random increments as I watch clumps of fried fish stick to his gums and teeth.
“Willy, do you understand?” he asks in Spanish.
I shake my head. Eventually, I finish my plate and go to my room, plopping on my bedcover and pillow.
I don’t move for a long time, even though my bed feels short and stiff and full of cockroaches. Realistically, my bed has only housed one cockroach, which Jorge had grabbed by the abdomen and flung casually at the wall like it was dart practice.
“Lo siento, Willy,” he had said. He was embarrassed because he was convinced that this never happened in California. I laughed in agreement.
I envy the courage of a man that is able to grab a cockroach with his bare hands. I am keeping this as food for thought as I lie helplessly on my bed. I haven't moved for what seems like hours. I whip my head around and yank off the sheets. Taking a few deep breaths, I pop in earplugs and the noises fade out as they expand. The room gets warmer and has a low ringing, which feels calming and pleasant, but the ringing intensifies and it transforms into a rattling noise, a sound like a metal tambourine covered in low hanging beads, and it's right next to my head. I squirm around, freaking out, and yank the earplugs out. The scheduled noises of late night traffic and TV programs return.
In four hours I’m awake and craving any type of distraction, so I ask Jorge if he has any books on hand that I could read. He smiles and, without responding, waddles back to his office and returns with an old copy of “War and Peace.” Its bulky pages are bent in a U at the spine and are missing their cover. From a distance, it looks like a dusty accordion.
Within hours, I’m obsessed with a character named Pierre Bezukhov. After studying abroad, he returns to his dying father to inherit ridiculous amounts of money, but soon becomes lonely and disillusioned. Not knowing who to trust, he joins a Freemasonry lodge. He quickly learns an important takeaway from the fundamentals of Freemasonry, to which Tolstoy writes:
“No one can attain to the truth by himself; only stone by stone, with the participation of all, over millions of generations, from our forefather Adam down to our time, is the temple being built which is to become a worthy dwelling place for the great God.”
I snap the book shut with a thwap and look up at Jorge, who sits at the dining room table. He doesn’t seem to notice the sound. I try to catch his attention.
“Jorge, voy a ir a... what’s the word?” I stutter, doing my best to speak in Spanish.
“Willy, it’s okay, you can use the English,” Jorge replies in English. “What do you like?”
“No, Jorge, yo prefiero el Spanish,” I say, determined to keep trying. “What’s the word I was thinking of – palacio! Voy a ir a la Barolo Palacio!”
“¿Qué?”
I switch back to English. “It's a building that used to be the tallest building in South America. You know, Palacio Barolo?”
“Ohh,” Jorge replies. “Why would you want to go there? That building is boring as shit. It's full of offices and has no history.”
“No sé Jorge...”
“It's just a tourist trap for Americans like you. Pero bueno. What can you do? You can go to the building if you want.”
“Gracias, Jorge. But did you know that Palacio Barolo was built by Freemasons, you know, that cult?” I stutter, feeling the need to justify my adventure. “Anyways, I really like the book you gave me. Do you remember reading about Pierre?”
“No, I never read the book, since I already know the history. He dies in the end.”
“Ah.” A moment of silence. “Well, I’ll let you know what I think of the building.”
“Okay Willy!” He exclaims cheerfully, his blueing eyes looking distant.
I meet my American friend, David, and we take the bus. I refrain from sharing Jorge’s preemptive review of our destination. We get off on Avenida de Mayo and have some trouble finding the palace, since the street has countless historical buildings. We finally spot our palace near the street corner, with a hundred balconies peeking out in Gothic style.
We get our tickets inside Barolo and I start gazing at the walls, thinking about Jorge, feeling like I can’t connect with him, about how he has the shape of a giant toad and how well that look compliments his young hearted spirit, and his inability to filter his own thoughts. Months of living with him is weighing down on me, adding up, stone after stone...
“Power thoughts?” David asks, eyeing me curiously.
“No, I was just thinking... You know how I said I was reading that book?”
“You’re such an English major.”
“Yeah...”
“Well, what is it?” “Jorge spoiled part of it for me.”
“Is that something I should be worried about? Are you going to be okay?” David asks, half sarcastically. After two straight months of hanging out with each other daily, he’s still slightly cautious about my range of sensitivity, which probably says more about me than him.
“Well, yeah, I think so,” I sigh, gazing longingly at a line of floor tiles in a chain linked shape. “Funny how a single book can provide such a big sense of security.”
David rolls his eyes. “I only read when I’m bored.”
“Then you must read a lot, seeing that you’ve spent most of your life on a corn farm in the middle of Pennsylvania.”
“The Amish people have always kept me company,” David replies in all truth.
Suddenly a short, peppy Italian man appears under the arch of the hallway. He introduces himself as Donny, our tour guide. His tight jeans and greased look stand out next to David’s baggy plaid shirt and long blond hair. All the tourists form a circle around Donny. One couple that is nearest to him are practically white knuckling their grip on each other's hands, looking wide-eyed and attentive.
Donny welcomes everyone into the circle and then quickly kicks off the tour as if he has a tight schedule.
“This building, Palacio Barolo, used to be the tallest in South America.”
“I already knew that,” I whisper to David. His eyes glaze over.
“This palace was built by the Freemasons. Both the developer and architect were Italian masons and they modeled it after Dante’s Divine Comedy. Right now, we are on the first floor: Hell.”
The circle of tourists around us gasps.
“The building was eventually owned by a man that was rather antisocial. Since the building was inhabited by many renters, he installed secret elevators so that he could move up and down the floors without being bothered. A kind and strange man, he wished to share his domain with people that never knew he existed. Knowing that they were present was enough for him. He stayed on the parameters like an archangel. Now, who wants to go to heaven? It’s only 22 more floors.”
A couple tourists laugh.
“¡Vámonos! Let's go.”
We all line up to take an ancient iron elevator that has an arrow over the frame of its door which points at the yellowing floor numbers like a semi-circular clock. As everyone shuffles forward, it's obvious that there won’t be enough space, so David immediately jumps out of line, forward, it's obvious that there won’t be enough space, so David immediately jumps out of line, and in association, I do too. The guide tells us to wait for the elevator to come back as they slowly creep upwards, leaving David and I on the first floor.
“Why do you always do that?” I whisper to David, even though there is no one around us. I sound less accusatory than curious.
“What do you mean?”
“I mean, you’re always giving leeway to other random people we don’t know, and then you get us stuck down here, in hell. Why?”
David rolls his eyes. “Because I’m not an asshole.”
“Yeah, I know you're not an asshole, that’s obvious. We had a spot in line and then you jumped out... Did you do it because you want to avoid feeling like an asshole?”
“No, it's because I care about other people. That’s all.”
“So there’s no other reason, other than your spotless soul and your profound care for others? That’s bullshit. You had incentive to do it, you didn’t want to look like an asshole. Everyone has incentive to be altruistic,” I say, hearing my voice echo. David doesn’t respond so I continue. “It's an evolutionary trait. Like, if I help you, I know that you will feel obligated to help me, which creates a network of security. That’s what being human is.”
“Just because you think that way doesn’t mean I do,” David replies. “If I want to offer myself up to other people, that’s my own decision. My way of decision making doesn’t have to be applied and compared to every other human that ever lived on this earth. If I open the door for people behind me, if I offer strangers my cigarettes, it's not because I think they will return the favor, but because I genuinely want to connect with them.”
Ding. The elevator arrives and David makes a scene about opening the door for me. He smiles.
“That doesn’t count!” I hiss, pointing at the door. “That was just to prove a point. And who says those other instances you mentioned weren't just to prove a point? I mean, if you can easily think back to times that you have gone out of your way for strangers, don’t you think that it could be to have some sort of internal leverage, that says ‘I am a good person?’ Like some type of internal narcissistic bragging rights? And maybe they don’t have to come out in conversation, but you have these altruistic instances just floating there on the surface of your mind for distraction.”
“Look man... I’m trying to think back clearly to the last time I did something altruistic– and the elevator doesn’t count! Because it just happened... And I can’t, no.”
“That’s a lie. Remember when you offered your last cigarette to that one homeless guy at the park?” “Well, I do now. What, did you store that memory just for this argument?” David laughs.
“No...”
From inside the elevator, still moving slowly, the arrow passes over the 11th floor.
“I just don’t get it. Why do you feel the need to argue about this?”
“Because... I don’t know, maybe it's because I think Jorge is housing me, and feeding me, meal after meal, the same food over and over again, and letting me stay in his house, and doing all these things for me, just because he doesn’t want me to go running to our program counselors and telling them that Jorge’s incapable of housing people. Which he isn't! But there’s such a lack of connection between us. I can’t understand him, which he knows, but he just continues to lecture me about history, like a parent playing KQED on the TV for a baby and hoping that they turn out smart in ten years. Which now that I think of it, is kind of sweet.”
“It seems like you're on his side, you keep backing him up. I think you know he’s doing it all out of the good of his heart.”
“True, he did let me borrow War and Peace...”
Ding.
The latticed iron door is pulled aside to our smiling tour guide. “Welcome to heaven!”
“Thank you, Donny.”
“Yeah, thanks Donny.”
The circle of tourists at the end of the hallway all look elated, whispering things like, “Heaven! My daughter told me I’d never make it here.” And, “Where are the 72 virgins?” each comment receiving an equal amount of waxed laughter.
The hallway itself is unimpressive, with very little window space and a few offices at the other end. We are told by Donny that this isn’t actually the top yet, and that we need to climb a very cramped staircase to arrive at the pearly gates. If you’re claustrophobic, tough luck.
One lady stood at the mouth of the stairway just shaking her head. I shuffled forward, trying not to look back at her out of respect.
David and I are the last in line again as we scuttle up the spiral staircase on all fours. At the top of the staircase is a hole, which we crawl out of like insects in a line, opening up to a glass dome in the sky with seat cushions facing all directions. Plopping down next to David, I’m panting, eyes wide, looking out over the skyline of Buenos Aires and past the coastline, past the horizon and over the ocean to the tip of Uruguay.
David brushes his blonde hair back angelically.
“You are now at the top of what used to be the tallest building in South America,” Donny explains in an animated voice. “It was also a lighthouse for commercial ships to navigate the coastline of Buenos Aires, however, its light wasn’t bright enough to extend all the way out to the ocean, so ships would sometimes get lost at night. Feel free to take pictures!”
After several oohs and ahhs we shuffle back down into the abyss of the tiny stairwell. I’m listening to the echoes of the steps and the collectively concentrated silence of avoiding a fall.
I follow behind David, trying not to kick him in the head. “Step after step, this building was constructed for the loneliest man in the world,” I relay over to him. Receiving no reply, I continue. “Stone after stone, we build palaces for gods.”
“What? I can’t hear you,” he shouts into the descending mass of people, his voice bouncing off the walls. The staircase winds around 180 degrees and I lose sight of him.
We reach an elevator and take it down to floor seven, which is purgatory, since it's right in between floors one and fourteen. We are offered free crackers and wine. Unsure of what my Catholic mother would think, I gratefully decline the offerings.
Back on Avenida de Mayo, we walk past fast-speaking Argentines and squealing oncoming buses, and David’s in a great mood, telling me about his ghost stories. As a man of the natural sciences, he has an unlikely knack for bullshit.
“And that was the rocking chair in my basement speaking to my girlfriend again. She’s a spiritual medium, which has its gifts and curses. The chair was telling her that its name was Gladys, which, coincidentally, is my great-grandmother's name... but there's no way my girlfriend would've known that because I’d never mentioned my great-grandmother to her, and neither had my parents or my brother. Anyways, the next night, I lost my elf doll that I’d kept on my desk since I was young. It was lost for weeks and then it randomly turned up on that rocking chair.”
“That’s bullshit.”
“So what, you won’t even endorse my story, but you're so quick to endorse some freemason spiritual beliefs from a random old book?”
“That random old book is actually Tolstoy, and I thought that you didn’t hear half of that stuff I was saying on the stairwell?”
“Selective hearing.”
Exactly. See, we just go tit for tat. Our friendship is just a reciprocal spilling of– and an ignoring of– each other's bullshit.”
“And a creation of bullshit.”
“No, that’s only your job,” I chirp.
He pauses. “What I think is bullshit is all the kids in our study abroad program who don’t do anything, don’t go outside, and just slander their host parents, blaming them for ruining their stay. It's so boring to hear that kind of stuff.”
Remembering we had had a similar conversation earlier about a spoiled girl that compared her host mom to some sort of evil witch, I now feel guilty for my obnoxious ramblings about Jorge.
I answer, “It’s odd, I feel like the people in our program that have trouble connecting with their host parents are lacking not only from the language barrier, but also because the host parents are all so old. They’re like all in their 70’s and 80’s, and I think that housing anyone at that age is always tough, whether or not the student is independent.
I think that most of these old men and women housing us are overwhelmed and it causes them to stick to very repetitive behaviors because they’re often forgetful...”
“I don’t know what you’re talking about,” David sighs.
“Jorge.”
“Oh. Splendid.”
“And I think that getting caught in someone else's routine can be discombobulating, especially when they’re older and have different values and needs, all the while you’re trying to establish your own routine from the ground up in an entirely new country. Every meal I’m seated to–”
“Fried fish and mashed potatoes, and sometimes empanadas, I know,” David interjects.
“Right, and I guess it's Jorge’s own way of saying, I love and care about you, which he does, I think, even if we don’t understand each other. But I think that between us, there’s a level of respect and understanding in that, morning after evening after night we check in with the same few words and with the same old food, and it's like we are slowly building, stone after stone, something between us that we can worship.”
“I like that,” David echoes. “Everyday, I go back to my host mom’s apartment and her small, white dog starts barking when I’m just down the hallway, and then it keeps barking when I’m inside and biting at my feet, and it keeps barking when I’m in my room, and when I’m sitting down for dinner. There’s something comforting about that terrible routine. You know, when my host mom’s dog was finally neutered because of the complaints from the neighbors, it felt weird to step out of that elevator door on our floor and never hear the barks from the hallway again. I didn’t give a shit about how the dog felt to be neutered though, with its dumb little whimpers, that thing can die in hell.”
“Infernal repetitions are what construct relationships. I wonder, do you think that we’ve built a whole life here? Like we’ve had enough time to really sink our feet in the mud?”
“I don’t know...”
“I’d never live here full time because I’ll never be able to speak Spanish. But I feel like what we’ve built here so far is... is...”
“A couple stories and some dying old folks that we’ll never forget.”
We are interrupted by a squealing bus, which takes us back to our neighborhood. I say goodbye to David. When I get inside my apartment, I go straight to Jorge to tell him all about our adventure. I make sure to include every detail. Jorge is excited that I have so much to say and he listens intently. When I’m finished, he smiles and grabs me by the shoulder.
“Well done, Willy. I’m glad you like it.”